jumping around the build somewhat now... Clutch, front brakes and now back to the engine bay and a re-visit to the plenum.
The GBS plenum needs mating to the modified inlet manifold. This is achieved by gluing the two components together using the Polyurethane Sealant thus preventing the plenum drawing in air through the sides of the plenum rather than through the throttle.
It is worth getting a selection of "G" clamps to hand for this task as they are invaluable for ensuring the two components are seated together in a flat manner thus maintaning a tight air seal between the parts.
I also used some nuts and bolts as extra pressure to the sealant whilst it cured.
Don't use too much sealant, a nice even smear across the face of the inlet manifold should suffice, when you mate the two parts together ensure none of the sealant seaps into the inlet openings, wipe away with a white spirit soaked cloth.
Its a case of being patient and leaving to dry for a few days before undoing the "G" clamps and nuts and bolts.
Whilst the unit was gluing together, I also fitted the air temperature sensor as I noted access with a spanner to this is restricted once it is fixed onto the engine block.
Moving on from fitting the clutch cable, I turned to getting the front brake discs and calipers assembled and fitted onto the hubs.
These are reconditioned calipers from GBS fitted to new grooved vented discs.
Fitment seems straightforward... disc goes over the hub bolts and this in turn is held in position with a couple of wheel nuts. (the countersunk hole in the disc is a puzzlement, not sure if I should be doing anything with that, although there is no hole in the hub for this to align against in turn take a bolt/nut..?)
The caliper bolts to the hub with 2 x M35 bolts - I noted some builds have found the bolts bind on the disc when tightened up and may need a washer to pack out -I did not seem to have this issue, so left with no washers
Finally I connected the braided brake hose to the caliper.
above repeated for both sides - All that remains is for the brake pads to be fitted, brake fluid filled and the brakes bled - subject to any leaks in the union joints on the cooper brake circuit we should be "good to go" on the braking.
Recent trip across to GBS garnered a few purchases including the clutch and throttle cable. I'll come to the throttle cable later however the clutch cable is a nice easy fit.
Reading several builds and talking to GBS, "notching" a nyloc nut seems the way to go in terms of fitting the cable to the bell housing. whilst the end of the cable slips over the clutch fork that extends outside the bellhousing.
the other end, passes through the pedalbox and connects to the clutch pedal via a "fork" connector - Note the pedal hole will need opening up and whilst hindsight is a wonderful attribute I wish I had done that before the pedals were fixed in!
As you can see from the photo below, the initial line up of the cable through the pedalbox is skewed to the right hand side of the panel - not wishing this to start binding on the panel I subsequently opened up the hole a little more to remove any risk of it binding and causing any friction.
It is worth getting a selection of "G" clamps to hand for this task as they are invaluable for ensuring the two components are seated together in a flat manner thus maintaning a tight air seal between the parts.
Don't use too much sealant, a nice even smear across the face of the inlet manifold should suffice, when you mate the two parts together ensure none of the sealant seaps into the inlet openings, wipe away with a white spirit soaked cloth.
