Throttle cable

I expected this to be a nice quick job but it proved far from the case and as I type it is not fully resolved...bear with me and I can explain..

The throttle cable needs some "customisation" to fit to the air intake butterfly valve. If you proceed to fit the cable straight off the shelf, when connected up, throttle travel opens the valve no more than 10% of its full required throw.

So...first piece of customisation... the plastic end connector needs approx 2cm removing off the threaded end and on the piece which screws onto the threaded end that also needs trimming back - hope the pictures below explain that more clearly...

The smaller "pyramid" shaped piece then clips into the butterfly valve frame:

The above customization provides sufficient throttle throw and fully opens the butterfly value.

The throttle cable routing is the next puzzlement...running down the outside chassis rails whilst trying to avoid contact with suspension mounts / steering column is a challenge and although I have routed it I am not happy with how it currently sits...There seems too much cable for the distance it needs to run from the pedal box to the butterfly valve.

So a frustrating session on the build, whilst i have got full throttle travel I am not happy with the cable routing... I am now starting to wonder if I have the RHD Throttle assembly - have I been given the LHD in error? is there a difference between LHD and RHD throttle cables even? - I need a chat with GBS to resolve.

Inlet Manifold to Plenum

jumping around the build somewhat now... Clutch, front brakes and now back to the engine bay and a re-visit to the plenum.

The GBS plenum needs mating to the modified inlet manifold. This is achieved by gluing the two components together using the Polyurethane Sealant thus preventing the plenum drawing in air through the sides of the plenum rather than through the throttle.  

It is worth getting a selection of "G" clamps to hand for this task as they are invaluable for ensuring the two components are seated together in a flat manner thus maintaning a tight air seal between the parts.

I also used some nuts and bolts as extra pressure to the sealant whilst it cured.

Don't use too much sealant, a nice even smear across the face of the inlet manifold should suffice, when you mate the two parts together ensure none of the sealant seaps into the inlet openings, wipe away with a white spirit soaked cloth.

Its a case of being patient and leaving to dry for a few days before undoing the "G" clamps and nuts and bolts.

Whilst the unit was gluing together, I also fitted the air temperature sensor as I noted access with a spanner to this is restricted once it is fixed onto the engine block.