Access Panel - boot floor

I have noted on many builds the need for an access panel in the boot area to get to the differential, fuel pump etc. I cant seem to track down a part at GBS - they supply the boot panels (see earlier post) but the floor panel is solid and needs cutting out.

So, no option but to get the jigsaw out and cut out a hole in the panel and fit a new piece over it secured with x4 rivnuts and bolts.

a nice little fabricating job - sourced some metal sheet off ebay which will provide the new floor, cut that to size, filed and trimmed. 

Added some window insulating tape round the edges to provide a seal and secured into position with the freshly drilled rivnuts/bolts.

looks good (although not the best photos, poor light!)

Gearbox bought

Finally acquired a type 9 gearbox!

been looking for a good used example for a while now and was lucky to place the winning bid, even better it was a local pickup in Woodford not too far from home.

upon picking up the 'box it transpired it had come out of a Caterham which had just been upgraded with a new Quaife gearbox so a good opportunity to talk kitcars and look over the Caterham it had just vacated.

Just need a bellhousing, of which there are plenty a clutch release lever and clutch bearing.

Thrust Bearing & breather plate

In order to convert the engine from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive you need to insert a thrust bearing into the crank end in which the gearbox shaft locates.

In all fairness you don't need to remove the clutch and if you are careful you could insert it carefully with a suitable sized drift and careful knock into position. As I need to change the clutch it was just as easy to take the clutch off and knock into position.

The spigot bearing has a right and wrong way - as you can see from the two pictures the rubber seal needs to face OUTWARDS in order to stop rubbish, dirt etc being ingested into the engine.

so taking a suitable sized piece of dowel or equivalent drift, place the spigot into the crank end and gently tap in with a hammer.

Using the clutch alignment tool, I also took this opportunity to replace the clutch, gently lining up the clutch with the x6 holes and securing back in place.

Nice quick job but an essential job in order to ensure drive to the rear of the vehicle

Breather blanking plate

Another very quick job, three screws and a nice piece of machined "ATR" blanking plate which covers the hole left when the flame trap is removed (not needed). 

  

Engine Part 2 strip down and prep

Seems such a shame to gut the engine of its dignity especially since it has not turned a wheel in anger... But this needs to be done, so out with the socket set and spanners!

first off was the inlet manifold and injectors.

The manifold needs to be "customised" in order to accept the GBS throttle bodies. Now on paper this is a simple task of sawing off the moulded pipework from the manifold thus leaving the inlet manifold face to be refitted back to the engine. However not wishing to mess this up GBS will do this for you so I need to strip the manifold of all its bits and return to GBS for them do the modification.


therefore I also removed from the inlet manifold the IACV  and the IAC valve. If this has been done correctly you will be left with the injector rail, an IACV and IAC valve



Next attention turns to the exhaust manifold off with that!



Not sure there is any use for this in the build so looks surplus to requirements... maybe a future ebay disposal

Finally removed the burn chamber which is covered with a breather blanking plate supplied by GBS

In all cases, exposed holes were covered with masking tape, any debris, screws accidentally dropped through the holes will spell the end

Engine Part 1

Well, I finally bit the bullet and ordered myself a brand new Ford Zetec engine from Kitspares, after much deliberation and shopping around plus hearing rumours that supplies of Zetec were drying up I placed my order and a shinny new engine was duly delivered on a pallet.

To make life a little easier I built a simple dolly on castors to move the engine around the garage floor, this was more useful for gaining some space back as the pallet took up alot of room preventing the wife's mini being parked in the garage!

A few pictures:

Before it can be installed some prep work needs to be carried out namely:

remove the inlet manifold / injectors

remove the exhaust manifold 

remove the fire trap

Fit spigot bearing

Replace filter with short filter

In addition to the above removal / replacement the following will also need fitting:

Alternator kit

Water rail kit

Throttle body (Single body plenum)

Gearbox!

Replacement inlet manifold to accept the GBS throttle body