Back to the front suspension having taken delivery of the Gaz front shocks from GBS.
As all the body wrap on the side panels had been done and the trim finished around the apertures in the panel the suspension arms pass through I can start re-building the suspension. The suspension arms took some gentle persuasion to fit back into place plus I had to remember where the spacers / penny washers fitted but once in position it all bedded in nicely and bolted back up fine.
the shocks locate with a bolt top and bottom, not overly difficult just need an extra pair of hands getting the shock positioned whilst locating the bolts through the shock/suspension arms!
I also took the opportunity to put the steering rack back into position (should have taken some photos of this task). The best way to do this is to ensure the plenum is removed and the lower pipework to the radiator is also removed from the engine bay.
Bend the LHS steering arm on the rack to an acute an angle as possible. Point it down into the engine bay from the driver side so it exits through the passenger panel - keep pushing through as far as it will go and then bend the RHS steering arm. This should give you enough room to lay the rack along the bottom of the chassis and bring the RHS back through the driver side panel.
Not sure that makes a whole lot of sense, but it does work and is more straight forward that the words suggest!
Sunday, 17 December 2017
Wednesday, 6 December 2017
Engine Earth
Very quick job on a dark Wednesday evening... earthed the engine to the chassis using the earthing strap which comes with the battery loom kit.
There is a hole already in the chassis plate which I managed to source a nyloc nut and bolt that fitted nicely through - remember to remove some powder coat from around the hole area on the chassis plate to ensure a nice clean earth surface.
the other end screws into a spare hole on the engine block, again I managed to scrounge a bolt which fitted nicely however it did need cutting down to a short size in order to screw into the engine block sufficiently.
There is a hole already in the chassis plate which I managed to source a nyloc nut and bolt that fitted nicely through - remember to remove some powder coat from around the hole area on the chassis plate to ensure a nice clean earth surface.
the other end screws into a spare hole on the engine block, again I managed to scrounge a bolt which fitted nicely however it did need cutting down to a short size in order to screw into the engine block sufficiently.
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