I think we are ready to mate the gearbox to the engine...
Feel this is a bit of landmark as the I edge ever closer to the day of installing the engine into the chassis.
Just a case of manhandling the gearbox to the engine and easing it into position.
The new ATR lowered sump provides a level surface for the engine to sit stable on the floor, so in terms of additional packing under the engine and gearbox to get everything level, very little is needed apart from some blocks of wood under the gearbox mounting point.
The gearbox is fixed into position with 5 bolts and tightening them in pulls the bellhousing closer to the engine. As per Haynes manual torqued to 45lbs
One thing I need to check is the clutch release lever/clutch bearing. I'm not too sure how slack, loose, tight this should be - gut feel moving the clutch release lever it feels too loose, need to do some reading up on this to understand what i should be looking for. <update, all good! realised pulling it wrong way, rookie error, Doh!>
Wednesday, 2 August 2017
Gearbox to Engine Dowels
2 Dowels / collars need fitting to the engine at 3 O'Clock and 9 O'clock positions looking directly at the engine.
Simply knock into the existing holes.

Not wishing to damage the dowels, I used a file with a penny washer which acted as a useful guide to ensure the dowel was knocked in even and level.

I few knocks with the trusty hammer and the dowels are in position, clearly there is a "natural" stop" for the dowels in the engine block as two / three good taps with the hammer and they will not go any further in.
Simply knock into the existing holes.
Not wishing to damage the dowels, I used a file with a penny washer which acted as a useful guide to ensure the dowel was knocked in even and level.
I few knocks with the trusty hammer and the dowels are in position, clearly there is a "natural" stop" for the dowels in the engine block as two / three good taps with the hammer and they will not go any further in.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)